Calibrating R3A, camera or lens or both?
So I've recently bought a Bessa R3A off fleabay, and a Canon 135/3.5 from a classified here. Put my first roll through it, TMax400, dev'd myself in Xtol 1+1 for 10 mins or so. Results came out great (metering-wise), except that almost every shot was front focussed.
Have an example:
The focus was on the dog when I took the shot, but on the neg it's focussed on the car (which should have been in the shot, still getting the hang of framing with an external VF), or maybe even a bit closer than that.
I've read "the" instructions for calibrating the rangefinder, and I'm unsure which way I should be going about it.
Firstly, infinity is fine. On the only-two rangefinder-coupled lenses I've got (135/3.5 Canon and 21/4 Skopar), rotating the lens until it hard-stops at infinity, the RF patch is perfectly in focus on the farthest tall tree I could find.
Vertical is also fine, that's easy to notice even without a lens if it's off.
The patch itself is sharp and in focus.
So where's the problem? Do I need to adjust the close-focus screw? (mentioned in the link but not exactly explained)
Or could there be another problem, like the RF cam is telling me i'm focussed at 3m when in fact the position of the glass elements are focussed at 2m?
To test the latter, I've had the idea before of using an SLR focussing screen, held over the film-area, with the back open and the shutter locked open on B, to see if what the RF tells me in focus agrees with on what the lens is focussing.
Despite the logistical nightmare of using all my fingers at once holding various things, dirtying the focussing screen, and the risk of the shutter closing on the focussing screen and snapping both, it just doesn't tell me much because the DOF shown on the focussing screen just masks out any focussing errors.
Besides that, it's hard to test the camera with my 'known good' 21/4 skopar, at 21mm f/4 everything's in focus, it's the 135/3.5 combo that neither are 'known' good.
So without getting a digital Leica M (240) with live-view so I can calibrate the lens, or buying another brand-new lens (ie so it's 'known good', at least I'd hope they come good from the factory), am I just SOL without sending everything to get a CLA together? (which is probably going to cost me more than what the lens/body cost me to begin with).
Any other tips or tricks that might help me out?