Jupiter 8 or 3?
I am about to order a Russian rangefinder FED-II with lens from a guy outside Moscow, Oleg Khalyavin, that fixes and sells such cameras. The question is what lens to choose. Besides Industar 61, he offers Jupiter 8 (50 f.2) and Jupiter 3 (50 f.1:5). Which one should I choose? Both are well within my budget, so price is immaterial. Both are also fast enough. I would just like to ask you which one is more likely to be a good, reliable and enjoyable lens?
An old chrome Jupiter-8 in good condition is a nice catch. First two digits of the serial tells you the production year. The older the better. I have one from -56 and it's a fabulous lens.
I asked the seller about accuracy, and he replied that
"Jupiter-3 like it's "father" Zeiss Sonnar have a problem on closest distance on wide aperture... Even accurate adjusted RF may give some shift of focus... At other hand - FED-2 have a long base of RF and it really accurate..."
So, he cannot guarantee that the Jupiter 3 will focus accurately at all times.
Old chrome Jupiters are relatively easy to adjust by yourself. Look for 'shimming a jupiter lens' on Google.
Here's some basic data. It may help.
Jupiter : http://www.baierfoto.de/russobj/objektive/jupiter.html
Industar : http://www.baierfoto.de/russobj/objektive/industar.html
I went through a number of lenses, a Jupiter 3, Industar 61N, Jupiter 8, Industar 22, and Industar 50 for use with a Canon RF and a Fed 4A. Minus the Jupiter 3, I still own these lenses. When I had the Jupiter 3, I was not particularly impressed with my copy (sharpness wise). Now that I have more experience with LTM cameras I wish I had it for retesting. The aluminum body Jupiter 8 is of fairly low quality (build wise), though it is definitely sharp enough for general use. It has no click-stops which is a real shame. I currently consider the Industar 50 the sharpest in this bunch, followed by the 61N, and then the Jupiter 8 and Industar 22. The two collapsible lenses, Industar 50 and 22 are made of steel and have the best body build IMO. Finding M39/LTM lenses with glass that is in pristine condition can take a bit of time and effort. But, they are out there. I ended up ordering three of these lenses through eBay sellers in the Ukraine.
So, I ordered both an Industar 61 and the Jupiter 8. Thanks for advice. We'll see how it goes!
Speaking of Jupiter 8's, the one on my Kiev has a sort of 'stop' between 1.7 and 2 meters. Is this normal? i.e. the approximate distance for a head shot or just a glitch in this lens? Not a big deal, just curious.
any thoughts on the J9?
Sorry for this not specifically J3 or J8 post but has anyone had any thoughts about the Jupiter 9 black body f2 on a Bessa R3a w/Leica adapter? thanks and cheers, sam
Waaay late to the party but here goes: on RFF 'the Master of Sonnar' Brian Sweeney posted that the black Jupiters in general are more sloppy in their optics than the earlier chrome lenses. As said above, get the Jupiter-8 and Jupiter-3 with as early a serial number as possible (first two digits show year built).
Brian shims them to match Leica standards, to which the Bessas are also built. Without getting too technical, when shimming and thus optimizing for close up and wide open, the increasing DOF when focusing farther away will cover the focus error and as a result you can have a lens that is spot-on both near and far. The whole optics module just threads out with aperture and all, it does on Jupiters -3, -8, -9 and possibly -11.
;) Remember, SLOBB = Silver Lens On Black Body = cool. It just oozes professionalism :whistling:
Good choice on the J-8. I have both an 8 & a 3. I use on my Bessa R. The 8 was reshimmed for the Bessa when I got it. The 3 I reshimmed myself. It front focused badly. Now it's dead on.