Almost all watercolor paper will curl will it gets wet. You can actually use that to your advantage. I prefer paper that has a good, strong curl. If you're seeing one long upward cup/curl down the length of the paper, you're coating correctly to the grain. If you coated the other direction (i.e., against the grain), you'd be seeing 'washboarding' -- guaranteed to produce uneven emulsion. But, if you coat with the grain, and then immediately stick something round under the curl when the paper is wet and leave it there for the whole drying time, you will never get any emulsion pooling that can leave you with too-thick spots. I use cut lengths of the pool toy things -- plastic noodles (??) I think they're called -- made of plastic foam.
I m about to buy some FOMA emulsion and would like to ask you, in your experience, which fixer would you use (for fixing coated paper)? would the Silverfix 5 ltr (powder) wkg. soln be ok? Or would I need a faster one? This is what the Silverprint website says about the Silverfix: Economical sodium thiosulphate fixer in powder form, designed as replacement for disontinued Ilfofix II. No hardening agents are included and the fixer suitable for most applications that call for a non-aggressive fixer, such as printing out paper etc. Makes 5 litres, used undiluted for film, and 1+1 for papers.
You should use a hardening fixer to get best results with hand coated materials.
the fixer mentioned is fine I think. (Don't know it first hand).
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
I use TETENAL VARIO fix all the time, but not always... Non hardening fix IF I want to:
1:Mess around with the emulsion after the printing.
2: Use it for bromoil prints (then it is a must to use non hardening fix.)
For normal fix I use tetenal superfix. Works fine.
PE: What do you mean by "best"?
Here are some thoughts.
Some papers are sized with Aluminum based agents which act as hardeners. Therefore, it may or may not be best to use a hardening fix with them. Some emulsions contain low bloom gelatin and harden differently than high bloom gelatin. Best conditions differ for these situations.
So, as pointed out, the final use of the coating as well as the support will determine the best conditions for making up the emulsion prior to coating and during processing.
Sorry I cannot give a straighter answer than this.
Thanks so much for your replies. Quite helpful.
Sorry to revive this thread, I know its been dead for a while. On the off chance you actually see my question, which book did Gandolfi recommend? I'm getting started with Bromoils and just ordered Fomaspeed liquid emulsion from Freestyle.
Originally Posted by Grainy
I saw it - even on my birthday... :)
Originally Posted by Take2
I think we shouldn't get confused here...: I thi the book I recommended was the book "Silver Gelatin" you'll find it here: http://www.silverprint.co.uk/Product....asp?PrGrp=163
IF you're going for Bromoil, then that is not the book (great book, but nothing much about bromoil printing..)
But you're in luck... I've made that book... a whole book on "how to" in Bromoil Printing using (FOMA) emulsion as base... you can find that one here: http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/3544067
Hope this helps..
It's your birthday? Here's wishing you a wonderful day and a magical year to follow! :)
As a side note, remember that there are a lot of typos in "Silver Gelatin" and not all of the emulsions have been tested. So go carefully there. The first part of the book is excellent as compared to the formulary portion.