Michael, I have used the Efke Pl-100 and the Bergger 200 and like them both. I like the tone I get with the Efke film and Pyrocat-HD. If I could afford Tmax-400 I would get some. I've used it in 8x10 and like what it does. I've had good success with the Efke. Next round I'm going to get a box of 8x20 Pl-25. It has the look that I'm after.
I haven't tried the PL-25. If it's a good one, and inexpensive, it might be a good way to break me into the 8x20. Sandy, yes these negatives will be printed mainly alt.
I print in several of the alt processes including Pt/Pd, salt and albumen. These require very long scale negatives so my first choice is FP4+. When I am out of this I use either Efke 25 or Efke 100. Efke 25 gives me the contrast I need more readily than does the 100. I use the 100 when I need the 2 extra stops. All are developed in Pyrocat HD+.
Larger Negatives imply longer focal length lenses which imply stopping down more to achieve depth of field, particularly where camera movements aren't feasible.
If this describes your proposed use of the 8x10 (else maybe you don't like depth of field?), then slower emulsions implies more reciprocity failure compared to faster films and longer exposure times compared with faster films. If you're outdoors, then this means more potential wind movement. Indoors it just means your shutter is open a longer time, and if you are using lighting -- just more sequential flashes to build up the exposure even for fill flash.
So, many using ULF prefer higher speed films over slower speed films. (You'll see this in both Dick Arentz's Platinum books as well as Dick Sullivan's book for platinum where they discuss film availability for larger formats). YMMV.
John Sexton's testing on TMX and TMY shows TMX has the best **(eg least) reciprocity failure characteristics, but unfortunately since late 2002/early 2003 they have included a UV filter layer in TMX which causes extremely long printing times for those using alt processes. this leaves TMY as the next best choice (far better than HP5) for reciprocity as well as having a high ISO speed compared with FP4 and others. << ** I've seen other peoples published reciprocity charts showing TMY is slightly better than TMX. John's results showed much better for TMY than TMX. You'll have to do your own testing>>
I use tmany (not Efke nor Bergger) - have a freezer filled with TriX, TMY, HP5 and FP4 in 7x17 and 12x20. I have noticed that older HP5, even frozen, tends to fog compared to Trix or TMY. My preferences are for Tri-X followed by TMY followed by FP4.....
Last post, change to "If this describes your proposed use of the 8x20"
Thanks Don, you have brought up some good points. I don't like to shoot wide open. Usually 2/3rds stopped down if not a little more. I haven't gotten the camera yet, and am not sure which lenses are coming with it. I do have my 24inch Gold Dot. Hopefully the bellows is long enough.
2/3rds stopped down works fine for enlarging.
If you are doing alt processes with contact printing -- you can go all the way to f64, f128 or f256 (or more) with no effects....the edge diffraction effects just don't show with contact printing.
So if you have an 1100 XXL or 1100 Doktor Geronar or 42 inch Artar or other long lens with almost no depth of focus wide open, you can gain extra depth of focus when you need it. (again faced with slower exposure and more reciprocity effects).
Thanks for the information about edge diffraction. I hadn't planned on learning about more than film in this thread. I always say you learn something every day...*if* you pay attention.
I use Efke PL100, because it's cheaper, but I find ISO100 slow for my work, I'd prefer 400-500 range. Is Tri-X or TMY available in ULF?
Originally Posted by SAShruby