What film...and why?
So, with the upcoming 8x20 aquisition I'm getting ready to plunk down some change and order some film.
I'm finding out that I have more choices than I thought I would...and am starting to wonder which film will be around a reasonably long time, and what other folks are using.
I will primarily be doing alt. processes with the film, and with 8x20 would like the option of keeping exposure times short if I wish (a higher speed film maybe???).
I'm not married to any particular type/brand/speed of film right now, but am liking the Ilford in 120 sizes for GSP's. I have been using the Berger 12x20 film, but have had mixed results (operator error more than likely).
Looking for input as to what type of film you are using, why you are using it, and what other film you *wish* you were using...and why.
Let 'er rip!
In formats like this, the best film is the one you can get. If you can get more than one, it's a matter of taste.
Definitely. But, it seems at least before actually calling up and ordering, that there are several films in 8x20. The Kodak TMY-2 seems interesting w/out the UV coating. Ilford has been good for me in 120, and the Berger, although available, leaves me wanting more.
So, for those who have tried more than one film in ULF, I'm curious as to what their tastes are and what their results have been.
I would start with some of the EFKE films. I have had nice luck with them and they are less expensive to start so you can burn more film while you are learning. With the 100 and pyrocat MC its a nice combo, tough to blow out the highlights...darn near impossible...nice for contrasty situations. For lower sbr ranges you may want to try a different film, maybe the EFKE 25...
I've started with a 8x20 camera and my films are FP4+ and HP5+ I used also Bergger 200 with wonderful results.
pl100 in 8x20
while I have not used my pl100 in 8x20 yet I have used it in 8x10 and it is a good film...but there are issues with this film and my feelings are that the larger you go the more with the issues...such as a light banding on the film that is not visible to the naked eye...made some azo prints and that is what I got...fact is that I have NEVER EVER had a problem like that in over 10,000 negatives...the majors certainly do a better job...hp5 or fp4 are both great films..would prefer the tmax but this run does not include it...don't fool yourself tmay400 is THE king of films...beautiful results with azo and platinum!!
Originally Posted by Michael Slade
Are you planning to print with alternative processes with these negatives? If so, the best films are T-MAX 400, FP4+ and Efke PL100. They all are capable of the high average gradient you need with most alt processes. Efke is the best bargin in ULF films, IMO.
If you plan to print silver any of the films should give good results.
I must be lucky so far. I've shot hundreds of sheets of Efke pl100 in 8x20 and I have yet to see any banding problems, even in the sky areas. I've recently started shooting Efke pl50 in 8x20 and 12x20 and it is a gorgeous film also.
one general film for contacts - hp5+. it is easily available for normal formats and for unusual too. very flexible, in developer choice (especially for contact print), for exposure, various contrast scenes etc... well, unless u want something with different tonal response - like ortho films (adox is great) or infrared ones.
On my way to Freestyle RIGHT NOW to buy some Efke PL25 in 12x20 for my pinhole.
Any of these films are good. I would go for HP5 myself if I had my way. It is very versatile and I already know it very well. But the Efke is very nice and very cheap. I have not had one problem with it in all formats and all speeds. I am not going to bother to special order something from Ilford when I can just pick up the Efke off of the shelf. It is a marvelous film.
Personally, I find TMax and Delta to be ugly films. But that's my opinion. Then again, it seems common to state opinion as fact in this thread, so I'm gonna just stick with what I said.
In short, just pick one and see how you like it. Your film choice is the least of your worries. A bad pic is a bad pic regardless of what film you use, and a good pic is a good pic regardless of what film you use. If you have the ability to make good pix on that camera, they will be good with any of the available films.