I have the CP31 and the operating manual from the defunct jobo america web site. You have the parts manual. That is something that I do not have, but I am not up on anywhere to get parts anyway, and have had the thing apart in rehabbing it.

CP31's are getting on, but are well mechanically made machines. Mine I found the digital thermostat for the first tank was kaput. I have moved developer to the second tank and use the first tank for a pre wet, with a thermostatic controller meant for a furnace fan grafted to the heater circuit for the first tank for rough control.

I have replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on the board in the cp31 three years ago, and the W/D unit about 1 week ago. They dry out and go flaky with age.

I have found the springs that tension the pinch rollers corrode and break. I replace them with rubber belts of the right length from an electronics parts store.

Level your machine and fill it with water to verify its opertion before committing more energy to it, particularly if you do not have the means or skill set to fix it up. Never power it without liquids in the tank.

There is a three pin DIN style plug cable that links the W/D to the main machine. The W/D uses the paper sense on time from the processor to figure how much to pre heat the heater from the data carried on this line.

Run scrap paper though the machine before committing chemistry to it. Note if there are any dirty rollers or transfer racks, or of the paper hangs up, and fix the problem. I got my machine in a filthy state. Many soaks running dilute tiolet bown cleaner, and wiping with nylon scup pads and many rinses cleaned things up. Since this I regularly risne the machine and run it with water for a minute or so every night then leave it drained dry as a shut down routine.

The speed dial has a formula. I run 45 second tanks time for RA-4, and this equates to 250 on the speed display. I have never varied from this. It was easier for me to time paper in and out than work out mm/second. Tanks I run at 100F, but find from experimenting that even with the heater controls disconnected the tanks will rise to abiut 74F from latent pump heat. If you are into major electrical repairs, be aware that this is a Japanese machine at its heart, and has a transformer in in to step 120 to 100-110V for its control boards, but runs 120V heater elements

As to b&w, I run RC, or pre wet fibre and stick it to waste RC to run it though the processor. Rinse the RC carriers if you do this or you get fix carry over into the developer as you recycle the carriers.

Set the third tank with a film strength rapid fixer. It wil fix a lot of prints, but check it from time to time for silver levels, because if the fix or a similar colur blix silvers out it is hell to scrub from the rollers (I have the experience to say that). At hot film strength you will be fixed in under 30 seconds.;

The second tank (for me) is develoepr. In find very little carry over to worry about the effect of pH changes in the fix in the next tank, and run wth no stop. The first tank I rn as a pre wet. For RA it washes off the overcoat dye and the developer lasts longer that way. For b&W it pre wets the gelatine and cuts the time needed in the developer.

I have used Ansco 130 in the cp31 for b&w because it is resistant to oxidation and works well at higher temperatures.

I use mine mostly for colour, but have used it for b&w. It for me is really overkill unless I am printing a lot of b&w, like more than 20 prints of the same or almost the same image in one sitting.

PM me if you want the operations manual, and I will run a copy and mail it to you. If you have problems with the machine, don't junk it. I am holidaying in your part of the world this summer, and would be willing to negotiate to buy it as a parts machine for my presently functional one.