I've played on and off with stereo for years, and have owned most of the cameras mentioned....

The Stereo Realist is a quirky camera to use, but once you get the hang of them they produce excellent results. For the price I would also recommend talking with George (DR T) on ebay - I would recommend his books on 3D as well (no matter which camera you get) - they are well written, and provide lots of info on how to use the cameras and present 3D photos.

On the subject of presentation I actually scan my negs/trasperancies, and create blue/red anaglyphs which you can view with "3D" glasses - great for sending to peope - plus you can easily post them on line for people to see in 3D..the software was a free download from the web - if you want to know more PM me..

But I digress. Kodak stereo's cameras are also excellent - if you get one that has a good working shutter then you will love it - sharp results, easy to use, proper wind and rewind knobs with levers (rewinding a stereo realist is not fun..). They may only have 4 shutter speeds, but they do have a spiriti level in the viewfinder to help you keep things level..

Sputnik - I love my Sputnik - even though you really need to go over them first before using them: replace the original Russian tractor grease in the focussing helicoids with something that actually lets the lenses focus, recalibrate the focus on the lenses, paint the inside of the camera mat black (or stick some sort of flocking in). The small focussing spot (the small groundglass bit on the middle of the viewfinder) can be difficult to see, but it is accurate...shutter speeds are limited...but you do get 6 big stereo images per roll.....and you can customise them to no end - replace the focus screen, mount a prism, and you have a camera almost as good as the new Chinese 120 TLR (triple lens) stereo camera you can get from Dr T for $1600 (or is it more now??)

Revere - again a nice camera - full range of shutter speeds, but the viewfinder is tiny andn very hard to see through.....but then again you do get a coupled range/viewfinder - great for action shots..

If you just want to try a bit of stereo first to see if you enjoy it get a Argus 3D/Loreo 3D camera - it's a compact 35mm with a built in beam splitter that takes 2 side by side photos on standard 35mm print film - when you get the photos back you just pop them in the included viewer and look at them in glorious 3D...

As people have suggested you will need slow film for shooting stereo - I use Velvia 50 in 35mm and Agfa APX 100 in 120...(and 400 ISO print in the Loreo)

Any stereo slide viewer will do - I have a brumberg, a realist, a Graflex plus a copuple of others - all light up and seem to work well, although the ones where you can adjust the seperation between the eyepieces are easier for some people to use..

What I would suggest is when you are starting out get some easy load slide mounts - the kind you slide the film chips into through slots cut out in them - the advantage of these is you can move the chips around to get correct alignment for the best 3D affect...once you get the hang of film mounting you can change over to RBT mounts, or the cheaper fold over mounts that Dr T has (these are the ones I use).

Also get a film cutter - cutting your slides with square edges makes mounting much easier....

I don't know where you are, but there may be a local 3D club who can help you - it's surprising how many there are around the world..and they love to talk 3D with anyone who'll listen....and no - I'm not one of them!

Have fun!