Well, here's my input... I'm not sure how easy it will be to get some of these items where you are, but they've worked well for me!.Originally Posted by arigram
Starting from the top:
Bellows patch- I use Electrician's "Liquid Tape" made by the same company that makes "Plasti-Dip" for tool handles. I've found it in both black & red. It's pretty foul-smelling, so I take the camera out on the porch to apply. I paint it on with a couple of light coats, allowing a few hours between coats to dry. It stays flexible, and if you don't close up your bellows too soon the pleats won't stick together. If you have larger-than-pinholes in your bellows, dab some in the corners on the inside. You might want to tape off any areas underneath the bellows, in case of drips.
Painting bellows- If they're black I use bootblack, I picked some up at the local shoe repair shop. Although, the last time I repaired a leaky bellows I painted the whole bellows with Liquid Tape & didn't need to re-dye them.
Glue & Dye the leatherette- I use a leather contact cement, found it at the local leather shop. They also had the dyes for the leatherette.
Rust- I usually just sand with fine-grit paper & then finish with 00 steel wool. If it's really bad there are rust removers at the paint shop.
Shine- Brasso works for most of the older camera parts. I've also used "Flitz" or "Blue Max" which is a metal polishing paste. You don't want to use a paste on any surface that has been chromed.
Clean outside & inside glass- If you mean lens elements, I'm not going to touch that with a ten-foot-pole... There are more opinions on lens cleanings than "angels who can dance on the head of a pin"! You might want to do a search for lens cleaning techniques & find the one(s) that work best for you.
Fungus- This one I will touch... Mostly because if the lens has fungus on it, it might be a goner already- why not try to save it? I've used Ed Romney's suggestion of 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide & household ammonia, as well as applying facial cold cream. If there is just a bit of fungus on the outside of the lens cell, then you can use a cotton swab to apply the 50/50 mixture. If the fungus is on the inside of the lens, then you have to disassemble the lens... no fun. I apply the cold cream on the cell, after it has been removed from the lens body, and then wipe it off with a soft cloth. Then follow with the 50/50 mixture to remove an residual fungus & cold cream. Settin the cell out in the sun for an hour or two should also kill off any fungus that is in the cement between the cell layers.
Mechanics- This depends on which mechanics you're referring to... I don't have a problem opening up most of the older shutters (Alphax, Betax, Graphex, etc.) as long as I don't try removing any of the internal mechanisms (man, you should see how far those spings can fly!). I use an electronic contact cleaner to thouroughly soak the interior & remove any gunk. I then apply a couple of drops of watchmaker's oil (Ny oil) to only the points in the shutter mechanics that have a rotating post showing. You definitely don't want oil anywhere else inside. I've never used dry graphite lubricant on the shutter leaf pivot points, but others have suggested that treatment. I usually just leave them dry & haven't had a problem to date.
If you're talking about camera body mechanics, the contact cleaner works well- but make sure you don't get any on the wood or leather parts... it can discolor them and can remove any glue/finish. The other option is to spray some WD-40 lubricant into a cup & use a cotton swab to apply it to the sticky part. I usually clean up the area with alcohol after using any lubricant.
I hope this helps! Here are a couple of links to some camera repair/restoration sites that I've found:
Richard Ritter has parts...
Lotus View Cameras supplies bellows also
Creative Dialog Photographic
Kevin Bourke restored a B&J 8x10
Parts (knobs, screws, bolts, etc.):
Small Parts Inc. (oh, man, do they have cool stuff!)