</span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (chrisl @ May 20 2003, 12:26 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> So, do these chemicals dissolve easily? Do you have to warm up the water first? And the fumes? Do you have to do it outdoors to be safe?

Frank: Is this formula good for both paper and film? What dilutions? Non hardner correct?

Sorry, just a few questions lol I like the prices though.

Chris </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
Opinions vary. I use TF4 myself. TF4 is the same strength for paper or film. The brew I posted up-thread is at film dilutions. Usually, with regular hypo, paper dilutions are 40% weaker than film dilutions. Some use a two bath for prints; one used fixer and one fresh. Some folks like it strong for prints and then shorten the fix time for archival purposes. I don&#39;t think there are too many absolutes here. Fixer becomes exhausted when its capacity to hold the silver it removes from the media is reached or exceeded. You can test this by dropping in a piece of un developed film (I do this regularly.) It should be completely clear in a minute or less. 30 seconds or less is common for fresh fixer. If the clearing time of a snippet of film is near or over a minute, toss it.

I find most photographic chemicals mix better in warm water. This brew has no hardener - I don&#39;t use hardener anywhere in my processes.

Frank