What reached out and grabbed me on your last post was that the shadows seem to be fine on the negatives, but get lost on the prints. This tells me it is more of a matter of how the meter is used and your negative developing and printing skills...and has little or nothing to do calibrating the DSLR's meter.
If getting a good print was just a matter of proper exposure, a little bit of bracketing and note-taking could have that nailed down for any particular lighting situation in an afternoon. Unfortunately, how the film is developed, and how one prints is of equal importance. One can have properly exposed film (good shadow detail), but depending on the light (high, medium or low contrast scene), how you develop that film will determine how easy it will be to transfer the light of the scene onto the print in the way that you want.
And of course, your printing skills will determine how easy it will be to take a well exposed and developed negative to translate into a print.
But at this point I do not know how you are getting these prints -- are you printing them? And if you are, what contrast controls are you using in your printing process?