I can't see any reason why using a DSLR meter shouldn't work, even if the readings are 'wrong' - as long as they're consistently wrong, everything should work out fine. It's only if you later use a different meter that problems may arise.
Originally Posted by Dikaiosune01
I don't wish to appear rude but I'd suggest that, from the way you presented your question, you've not quite understood how the zone system works : When you say you are 'planning your results on iso 200', does that mean you've done film speed tests to confirm that the 'actual iso' is 200? Or have you decided on it arbitrarily? If so, then you aren't using a zone system but guessing and that isn't really how the system operates.
I'd look at Ralph Lambrecht's site or here http://www.silverprint.co.uk/pdf/Goldfinger.pdf (Page 11 onwards, It's very poorly reproduced but it's a simple method that works).