Thanks for some really good pointers thus far!

OK, the lights are monoblock strobes, they are all exactly the same, 300W Guide number 55 - Generic Chinese ones (Fotogen if anyone cares-, but they seem to do the trick and I haven't had a problem using the pixel activator with these.

As for the light meter - just a standard old Minolta IV flash meter, used in the 'Cord' position (with sync cord attached, of course ). I individually metered the rear lights at between F8 and F11. The front light was metered at just over F5.6. This was the exact setup that is shown on my flickr page.

The camera was set to F5.6 @ 1/125th. With the K-O, I was lead to believe that it should sync at any speed, but I could be wrong. I just set the shutter at this speed, more so out of habit. Oh and yes, the lens is set to the X flash setting.

Just looking at the negs again, the decenty is pretty much uniform all the way. I am now starting to think that it indeed might be flare from the back lights. I know when I was using the digi, the first few shots did show a little flare, which meant a slight adjust of the setup and all was good. It was from that final setup that I went to the Film. That being said, the lens hood on the digi is much better then the built in hood on the K-O 90MM. Could it be something as simple as that?

And yes, bruce, I would have to agree. I don't think the K-O is the best tool for the studio. I have to admit, I have troubles with the range finder in such an environment. I am in the process of deciding what MF camera I want to go to. At this stage, I am looking at Bronica SQ-Ai's.

I do think, though, that next time I might be better off loading up a 35mm camera with the film I want to use, take notes and bracket away.

I might see if I can scan them in, even just keeping them in the sleeves on the bed and display later.