Can a regular acetic stop bath ever be sufficient, given that it is changed frequently?
Why is sodium sulfite recommended to be added to the acetic bath? Doesn't the acid and water, alone, remove the developer efficiently.

I do something rather unorthodox: after the stop bath I fix and turn lights on to view the print. Sometimes I let it go at that. Sometimes I do want the slight increase in warmth so I will then, in full light, bleach (potassium ferricyanide) for a minute, and then for a few seconds, I fix again in the same fixer. I think that that is a much more rational way to go about this process. I do the same fix/bleach reversal with film. Why does everybody else bleach before fixation?

Another question (will reflect my chemical naivity) : if one bleaches (color paper or film) in full roomlight is there a danger of (is it called) halogenation with the silver salts being made sensitive to light? Thanks for all the information you are able to impart. - David Lyga.