Here is a test of Kodak magenta dye transferred to old fixed-out Kodabromide with an F-2 glossy surface.

The matrix was 6% gelatin, 1% sorbitol on melinex and brush-sensitized at 5% potassium-dichromate. The matrix was dry, so it was briefly pre-soaked in cool water, then added to the dye bath at 20 for 5 minutes. It was then rinsed in a 10% acetic acid bath*.

The Kodabromide was punched and soaked in cool water about 15 minutes prior to this, then squeegeed to the transferring board.

The actual "rolling" of the matrix was done with a squeegee, but I need to get a brayer or a print roller. Thought about a rolling pin...

You can see that there is bad transfer near the registration holes, this is due to my registration pins being inaccurately mounted, causing some buckling. (need to fix that)

All in all I'm pretty pleased, just looking at it. It's the best image I've gotten yet with a dye, but it definitely illustrates what needs improving.

* For one, the 10% a.a. rinse (Ive's recommendation) might have been excessively high, resulting in high contrast. Afterall, Kodak recommends 2 baths at 1%, adding acid in the 1st rinse to increase contrast.

It pays to read up

Ives speaks of the necessity for a 'tenuous' relief (read thin) in his patent that includes the claim for a light-restraining dye, a practice thereafter used in the industry. The relief needs to be thin to allow for flush contact between the matrix & transfer paper.

I think I will include some yellow food dye in the next batch of matrix gelatin. As PE says above, the dye is tartrazine and I'll bet that's what the majority of yellow food colorings use anyways.

Lastly, EK says that the quicker the print is dried, the sharper it is. I let this one air-dry after a wash in distilled water. Washing isn't recommended at all by Kodak, but it seems like you'd wanna wash the acid out?? IDK.

Ok.. well I think the next logical thing to do is repeat this exact procedure but with Kodak Dye-Transfer paper. That'll give some idea of what mordants can do.