I took this picture last month at a sunrise photography outing. I measured the shadows on the rocks and place them on zone 3 (closed aperture 2 stops from what the meter indicated). I also measured the area above the sun that I need to be on zone 7 and figured there was a 4 stop difference. It means my highlights will go on zone 8 if I don't cut the developing time.
Conclusion is that I have to develop my film for N-1 (about 30% less than manufacturer time going by my personal exposure index). I know this sounds technical for the first time but I recommend that you read about the zone system and how to determine your personal exposure index + developing time for the equipment and film combo that you use most. The more you work the more you will understand.