They should work great if your home is wired to handle them. You will probably need stands too.
To work around the low effective film speeds, move them closer to your subjects, and cycle them on and off as needed to save power and keep your subjects from baking/going blind.
There is a reason they call them hot lamps, and a reason why they have been largely replaced by flash. They consume relatively large amounts of power to produce a relatively low amount of light, and are relatively large and heavy.
When it comes to shooting people, my preference is to have at least 2,000W per head, if they are being bounced (a la M-R Softlites). 1,000W is OK for spots. My home hot lamps are Smith Victors with a 500W bulb in each housing. They are perfectly fine for stuff, but not that good for people. I usually get '8 to '30 at f/5.6 with them, using bounce umbrellas and Tri-X 320, at a pretty comfortable (but still hot, requiring cycling on and off) distance from the subject.
Just remember to get the lamps close; do not be shy with them. This is another reason why longer-than-normal lenses and lens hoods are great (almost "must haves," IMHO) for studio shooting. They let you move the lights nice and close.