I go this way without meter: each film has a 'speed' (for which I use an EV) for daylight (K4000 to 10000) and tungsten (K2500 to 3400). Here is how I simplify matters and end up with essentially what Ansel did with his unduly intricate "ZONE" system.

For example, Tri-X has the following 'speed' in my mind: Daylignt: EV 15 to 2 and Tungsten: EV 8 to 2. What this means is this: for me, Tri-X uses a minimum exposure outdoors of EV 15 (I KNOW that this is overexposing for most but I develop less and love shadow detail; besides David Vestal originated the legitimacy of overexposing Tri-X in his 'Craft' book) and a DIM (almost dark, past dusk) EV of 2. For indoor tungsten (or fluorescent) lighting a very brightly lit room (Walmart's restrooms with all the white tile example) uses an EV of 8 and, again, the DIM tungsten (almost dark) uses the same EV of 2 that was employed for daylight.

In this way I know the outer parameters for exposing with any film. For T Max 100 simply use Daylight EV of 13 to 0 and Tungsten EV of 6 to 0. For Pan F it's Daylight EV 11 to -2 and Tungsten EV 4 to -2. You quickly develop the ability to judge the current lighting situation when you have these outer parameters firmly established. And you also have the flexibility to 'overrate' film (as most will choose to expose less than I do). For example, most will judge Tri-X as Daylight EV of 17 to 4 and Tungsten EV of 10 to 4. Hope I have not been too complicated but it does work. - David Lyga