$270 for a roll? I've been buying even older paper, Kodak Ektacolor Supra III in 575' rolls for under $30! I'm crazy I know but I just cut it in the dark with scissors... should really work out something better (I waste a little paper but I have 575' feet so I'm not too worried). Still looks and works great, in fact the 2009 expired cut Supra Endura needs more yellow filtration to avoid being too warm so the older (can't remember how expired, years and years) Supra III lasts very well.

I process both the Kodak Supra III and Supra Endra and Fuji CA Type II at room temperature (22-24C these days, 18-19C in winter) in the Kodak Ektacolor RA RT replenisher (no starter) 10L kit and the matching 10L blix kit. I use a citric acid stop bath. I work under a Kodak #13 safe light with 15 watt bulb bounced off the ceiling, very little light but enough to see what I'm doing (by contrast I can easily read data sheets under the Ilford 902 for B&W work).

The Fuji CA Type II is higher contrast for sure but being newer requires normal color correction unlike the expired paper which needs extra yellow. I generally like contrasty prints so I don't mind it really, even with Ektar.

By overexposing Ektar (shoot at 50) you can get very dense negatives. The highlights will block but I find this compresses the contrast some. I develop my own C-41 so I can control the development there though I use my 1L JOBO Press Kits to 200% of capacity (24 rolls/litre) so I guess I'm not super picky.

Are you just making straight prints? To get the right highlights and shadows I find I need to dodge and burn, just like B&W. By stopping the enlarger lens down I can get 35s exposure times even for 5x7" prints which is enough time for me to dodge and burn.

Odors? B&W fixer is sharper and much more noticable. Low odor stop bath is fine.

The Ektacolor data sheet says it makes 16 8x10" prints per litre, or if you don't care about quality then up to 40 prints per litre. I'm getting about double that, 80 8x10" equivalent prints per litre. The Kodak data sheet also says not to use it in an open tray for more than 4 hours but I certainly use it for longer than that as I'm slow sometimes unless I'm making 50 prints of the same negative in which case I can use a print safe and process a group. I'll often have it in the trays all day and I'll use it another day or two if necessary. The developer turns into a disgusting brown soup when its really dead. The blix seems to last longer than the developer but I dispose of both at the same time.