Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
Your last paragraph is critical in understanding what is going on or what might go on. Without the proper mordant, you can even lose dye from the print back into the second or third matrix as you are doing transfers. There are a number of things that can go wrong without mordants, but you have touched on some of them.

As for the rest of it, I think it important to know what is going on in the real, perfected dye transfer process marketed by Kodak. If you don't a lot of things may get lost over the years. But, much of this is covered in Jim Browning's web site and I cannot stress the importance of his information enough.

PE

Hi Ron and Chris - I just happend across these postings by accident. Very interesting Chris, I think that DCG matrices could work very well. I commend you for your work!

A few notes - please see my recent postings about paper mordanting on the Yahoo DyeTransfer group list server - the Kodak M1 mordant will work very well, and give very sharp prints with high DMAX. Fixed out paper works well, but isn't as sharp, particularly if you are making finished prints which are rewet one or more times for retouching purposes. I have been using fixed out paper (alum mordant) for test prints, and I give an additional M1 mordanting to the paper for final prints, for the best sharpness. Note - it is advisable to vigorously clean the paper surface with a very dilute photo flo solution before use to remove unwanted M1 mordant which can poison the matrix (cause the dyes to lock into the matrix,or back transfer into the matrix). This can be mostly eliminated with cleaning, but I would still recommend using a matrix clearing bath on all
transfers.

While the Thorium Nitrate paper causes a Cyan hue shift to occur immediately, which can be desirable for quick evaluation of the color of the print without drying, the M1 mordant will actually give a much better correction of the Cyan dye hue than the Kodak paper, it is just that it doesn't occur until the print is dried. We have seen resulting blues, Cyans, and Greens which are much brighter than can be had on Kodak DT paper. M1 mordant - highly recommended if done correctly.

One note - the conditioner isn't really acidic, it tends to run neutral pH (7.0) to slightly acidic, pH 6.0. The idea is to have the paper more basic than the matrix, possibly causing electrostatic attraction of the dyes to the paper. If the pH of the paper is too low, no transfer would occur.

Regards - Jim Browning