>Is this the M1 mordant post you're referring to? -> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/d...r/message/3526

Yes, that is the posting, follow the instructions there and you will get good results.

>It has been recommended that a dilute sodium acetate solution will act as a paper conditioner; given that I don't have any of the "official stuff".

There are formulas both for Kodak's version (which requires Formalin), and Bob Pace's formula which is simply a buffer solution of Trieth and AA, IIRC. If you have a pH meter (necessity), you will use it to titrate the buffer to the proper pH.

>Ultimately I'd like to hand-coat receiving paper, but having the M1 mordant formula might come in handy. In fact, I wonder if a plain gelatin coated paper, such as final-transfer papers in carbon, would work if mordanted in M1. I'm intrigued by the fact that these papers don't keep well. I guess I would have figured that these chemicals were fairly inert and would keep indefinitely. Does the M1 mordant have any hardening charactersitics?

A Baryta base paper coated with a thick gelatin coating will serve well. It needs to be hardened, but not overly hardened. If you can't incorporate a mordant when coating the paper, use the M1 mordant to post mordant it. You are right, the life of an aluminum mordant is only a few weeks. I think that it continues to harden the gelatin until it won't accept the dyes readily, or it won't conform to the the undulations in the the matrix, causing bleeding, particularly out of the image area into the borders.

Regards - Jim