The 120 film clips are made from short pieces of plastic window blinds. Phototherm is extremely clever at making things from "stuff laying around" for raw material.
Just trim to fit, and use two per reel.
You probably have half a dozen extra blades stacked at the bottom of the blind when it is fully down. Steal one of those.
I made some sized for 127 as well. But the smaller edge of the 127 presents less danger of pulling out from the rotational dynamics.
Only the Super Sidekick (SSK) models have adjustable rotation speed. The older Sidekick and FP models are fixed speed, and thinner based film will spill out. Or at least it does on my FP-1.
EDIT: Below is extremely disjointed, so pick through it with that caveat. It's my side of the conversations with a guy who got one some months ago. I wasn't comfortable posting all his email to the world, and I don't have time right now to write this into a coherent essay. Maybe someone can get some use out of this. Or if someone has time to write a guide and more info about the Phototherms take this and add it to your stuff. I don't care. I do think that there are enough of us showing up that a quick users guide would be a "good thing" if we could pull it together.
Disjointed info about Phototherms.
The 8 reel tanks are for the SSK8R, which is the newest machine, not the one you bought.
You will be able to process two rolls or four rolls of 35mm film. Or you can also process one roll or two rolls of 120/220. The unit uses regular Paterson style plastic reels. The four roll tank holds four reels set at the 35mm spacing, three reels set at the 127 spacing, and two reels set at the 120 spacing. (I have successfully loaded two rolls of 120 onto a single reel and processed 4 rolls of 120 film on two reels in the four roll tank.)
The machine you have is the transition era, newer than the old FP-1 which had the straight selector valve, and older than the new body style sidekicks which have the rotary valve like yours.
My best guess looking at the back of the unit in the eBay listing pictures is that it is a Sidekick 4, so look at http://www.phototherm.com/support.html#manuals and download the SK4G manual to read while you're waiting for it to arrive. Even if that is not the correct manual it will give you insight into how Phototherms operate.
You will see that the manual has the new style plastic shell, but the unit on eBay has the older style plastic shell. There should be little difference between them other than the plastic skin. Once you get the unit you can power it up to see what ROMs it has installed. You can tell much more about it then.
The tanks and spindles are somewhat expensive, and Phototherm is the only supplier. They never show up on eBay. Usually if a Phototherm is listed on eBay it is either complete, or the tanks and spindles are lost. I never see only the tanks and spindles, and I watch religiously.
You need to see what generation your unit is before trying to buy a new tank and spindle from Phototherm. The old units do not have a temperature sensor mounted in the tank, only in the internal heating chamber, while the newer units have an additional thermistor in the tank itself. Likewise, the old style tanks have a magnet encased in the plastic housing that keys the fluid volume for the processor using a sensor inside the processor, and this magnet is absent from the new tanks. Your unit is in the transition, so you need to examine it to determine which style to purchase.
Do not waste money on the Phototherm plastic chemical bottles unless you can get them with the eBay auction inexpensively. They are merely plastic 2L bottles with a hole in top for a suction line. Any plastic/glass bottles will work. You will need a large bottle for a water supply, probably 10L. It must not be pressurized, therefore you cannot hook the machine directly to a water main. The same pump draws the wash water and the chemicals, so everything must be in an atmospherically equalized bottle.
If you do not have a drain close by you will also need a drain bucket, also about 10L.
One more item!
I don't know where you're located, but if you are in the south and everything is warm, keep in mind that the Phototherm has heating capacity but no cooling capacity. The developer solution temperature is the only critical variable if you are doing B&W, so I usually mix developer immediately before using using water that I keep chilled.
For example, if your developer is 80F you need to adjust development time. If you mix developer with chilled water immediately before use the processor will heat it to 75F, but it cannot chill it if you have it in a bottle that is at room temp.
If you are doing color work the working temperatures are above room temperature (100F), so the processor will heat them regardless.
When you power up you can get the ROM revision. The tech support folks can tell a lot from that.
You'll need a plug, which is probably with the machine, but since it's detachable it can get lost. I'll measure mine tomorrow morning, and in case you don't have one you can make a replacement using PVC pipe. It is merely a round piece of plastic with an o-ring in a groove.
When you have a suitable plug you can put the machine through all of the test routines without a tank. Things like the clean lines operation and temperature calibration do not use the film tank (but require the plug). In the test mode all of the solenoids and pumps can be tested without mounting a tank.
If yours uses the old style tanks, then the larger and smaller tanks are mechanically the same size, but the two reel tank has an internal divider to make the process chamber smaller and the remainder is empty during use. With the old style tanks there are two magnetic reed switches to detect which tank is loaded on the bed, large or small, and the machine pumps the volume required for the detected tank.
For the new style there is no two reel tank, only a four reel tank. To process two reels a plastic displacer is inserted into the four reel tank along with the two loaded reels. The displacer occupies the volume of missing two reels reducing the chemistry required by raising the liquid level so the film wets properly. At process start the operator indicates if the tank has two reels or four reels.
Tank presence is detected by the magnetic reed switches in the old version. Tank presence is detected in the new style by the electrical contacts for the thermistor. In either case, if the machine does not detect a tank present, it will not start a development cycle.
Without a tank you could fashion a reservoir to hold the process water and trick the machine into running development cycles. If your machine uses the old style tanks, you can trick it with a magnet. If you need new style tanks with the embedded temperature element you can trick the machine with a resistor.
But you can do everything necessary to make sure you've got it working properly before you buy a tank, and it's not hard or expensive to get going. The tank and spindle is the expensive part.
The dump sensor and floating fill valve are nice but unnecessary.
Here is the exact same valve that you would have to put in your own plastic bottle.
For the dump sensor, just watch your waste dump bucket and don't let it overflow. My setup is in an old laundry room, so I let the machine drain out the pipe for the washing machine. I have no dump bucket. But so long as you pay attention you don't need these.
US Plastics has more bottles than you can decide. I suggest you use 2L soda bottles until you get your process flow figured out.