Ugh...I have to retype this all over again because one of the quoted messages had a link? Just fantastic.
So, thanks all for your help but I don't really get everything.
Yeah, I recall reading the Yashica has a light meter, thanks. Where would one find a LunaPro SBC? Thanks for the recommendation on the 124, I had no idea about it. There is one on KEH for $149.00 (USD?) but no lens and doesn't say whether or not it has a 120 back or WLF. Also ugly condition only. Or are they built into the camera unlike Bronicas, Hasselblads, and Mamiyas?The Yashica has a light meter. It's often dismissed as rudimentary and in a way I suppose it is, but while I don't rely on it, I'm surprised how often I carefully meter with my LunaPro SBC then find the in camera meter in absolute agreement - this is with my 124; the 124G meter may be better. If you can find one, I prefer the 124 to the 124G. The "G" stands for "gold" and has gold plated flash contacts.
So, how exactly do these light meters work or any other meters like the Sekonic? Do you point a laser at the thing you want to meter?Handheld light meters, good ones, are very reliable. They do take a bit of learning to use. I use a LunaPro SBC.
I just got back into film a few months ago so I'm mostly testing all sorts to get a feel for the best ones for me. For colour, I like Kodak Ektar, and black and white, a lot of Ilford and Tmax.. You don't say what type of film but in practice, for something like street shooting with black and white or color neg
What is this?general meter reading for the prevailing light
What is this? Does it magnify the image before you as an artificial zoom in? How do you know what the peripherals of your image will turn out like, then?use the magnifier in the Yashica
Interesting. I don't completely understand, but I think it will really click when I can visualize it with my own MF camera.The film doesn't load, wind and rewind quite like a 35mm. The Yashica anyway is slower to load. You get better at it (get a manual or download one if you get this camera) and it isn't really difficult, but it's not as quick as 35mm. The film comes on a spool. There are two spool slots in the camera, one for the film you are shooting and one for the take up spool it winds on. After your last shot you keep winding and that winds the rest of the film on the take up spool. You open the back, remove the spool, fold the paper leader down and there's a piece of "lick and stick" or other paper tape you use to tape the paper leader down. I forget which film brands have which of different types as they're all pretty obvious. For your next roll you move the spool the last roll came on over to the take up side and put the new roll in the film side.
Yeah, I was taken aback when I found that only 12 exposure are on a roll, especially for someone who loves 36 exposure film. But I guess that 120 film is cheaper (assuming it is because of the lower amount of frames per roll) so I guess I can still end up with the same amount of frames. Plus I can carry another camera or two with me for when the 120 runs out because I'd mostly be using this for street. I also take close care with what I take pictures of as I don't have a lot of money to blow on film, so I try to have as little wasted frames as possible.One thing to remember if you get a 6x6 camera is you're only going to get about 12 shots per roll, so you'll be doing a lot of changing rolls in alleys and doorways! It can take you by surprise the first few times as you're blasting away and suddenly nothing happens.
Thanks...this 1000s is actually pretty affordable. Mamiya 645 1000s with 120 back in EX+ on KEH is $159.00. Though, I am not sure how much a WLF or a good 80mm lens (because I like 50mm in 35mm terms) would cost. I will most definitely keep it in mind , though.I sometimes use a Mamiya 645 1000s for street. It's easy to hand hold and you can get a WLF for it and you get 15 shots per roll. Whether you can find one in your budget range I don't know; likewise (and even more so) an RB.
Yeah, I've contemplated this, but I worry about missed shots and wasted frames. As an experiment, I tried this with digital, just so I could see the results right away, as well as not waste any film. Lots of awkward framing, cut off bodies, or bodies not even in the picture. If you have any tips that would make my skills with this much better, though, then by all means tell me.If your main issue is regarding bringing the camera up to your eye, there are are other ways of taking photos on the street with a 35mm camera. With a wide angle lens you can shoot from the hip and be pretty sure of getting something usable.
Also, it may be noteworthy that I originally was thinking a Nikon F3 or F4S but I've heard the WLF can be pricey as well as not have all metering options and a small image projected.
This isn't much an issue for me as I almost always do landscape/horizontal orientation when shooting street. Actually, I don't remember the last time I did portrait orientation.645 is a good format BUT not the best if you specifically want to shoot with a WLF. The 6x6 was used with cameras with waist level finders in part to avoid having to turn the camera. With a square image there is no horizontal or vertical orientation. Depending on the film path and the format, a rectangular format will either shoot a vertical or horizontal from waist level, but you will have to turn it very awkwardly to shoot the other.
I'd rather not do that, so I guess the RB67 is off limits for now.For street shooting, the Mamiya works best on a tripod or monopod.
Great. What is the actual weight/dimensions of the Bronica? There is such little info available about Bronicas on the web. I'm assuming I can attach a strap and carry it "handheld" that way?The Bronica is almost petite by comparison and works well handheld
Damn, that sucks. If I can find a 120 back for the SQ-B affordably, then I guess that would be nice. Ideally I'd want to buy the camera already with WLF and 120 back, and it coming with a lens would also be great.120 backs for the SQ series are hard to find and usually pricey.
What's this?split image focus aid
Thanks, and again, how do these light meters work handheld? And they wouldn't appear strange and intimidating to others on the street?sing a handheld meter is really the only way to go with these. A small handheld incident meter is really all you need--something like the Sekonic 318-328 or slightly pricier 308 are small, accurate and easy to use.
Why is it slower and by how much if you could estimate?The medium format shooting style is slower and more deliberate
That is what has lured me to MF.TLR. I don't understand it, but shooting in the street with a TLR is like putting on an invisibility cloak. I've stood right next to people, taken full-on face shots, and they look at me as if I am not there. And I am talking about typical MF slow work, needing to focus, frame, etc.
Thanks! Looks nice and affordable. But will it last? Does it have a built in meter that is accurate? There is one on KEH in EX condition for $245.00 that comes with a 75mm lens. But it mentions in the description, "rokkor" and "speeds off." What does that mean? Also, I'm assuming with TLRs I don't need to shop for backs and WLF separately, right?You want a nice street TLR, get a Minolta Autocord.
Thank you for the recommendation. I'll definitely look into that book, as I've never heard of him.Robert Doisneau did this quite often to good effect with a Rollei. He would stand there and shoot a whole roll over a period of time. You can see this technique at work in his "Doisneau Paris" book.
Thanks a lot for the offer, but as I stated originally, I am hoping to begin saving for a MF with WLF, as I don't currently have the funds for something of that sort. I'll probably start saving soon after the holidays.I happen to have a 124G, newly overhauled by KEH for sale right now within your price range. Also have "A" or "D" that I might part with for cheaper.
Take a look, make an offer.
1) I've read on multiple occasions that MF has less depth of field and bokeh. But lenses I've seen can go down to f2.8 and f3.5, which is pretty good. Unless, it is with a different metric like the focal length is. Plus, I've seen some fabulous depth of field with a Rollei or Mamiya or Hasselblad, so it can't be that bad, can it?
2) KEH - how does it work and have you had good experience with it? I've never used it but it is constantly recommended and mentioned, so it can't be that bad, can it? What is shipping and duties like to Canada?
Thank you all again for all your help in the matter!