Bleach is as follows
Potassium Ferri- 32grams
Postasium Bromide - 32 grams
12 litres of water.
I will use this basic starting point- for Ilford Warmtone anywhere from 5 seconds to 1minute depending on the look I want.
Sodium Sulphide- 32 grams
12 litres of water
Immerse the print into the sulphide(stinky stuff) for 30secs to 1 minute.
Thanks to Bill Schwab on this one.... if the tone is not to my liking I will re bleach and build up the brown tone. I watched Bill doing this after a long day in my darkroom, making some murals. I thought he was crazy but once started is an amazing way of building up sepia tone to exactly where you want to be.
If I want a duo tone then I will mix up the Selenium.
I use: Selenium 1 : 5 and I will vary the papers to suit my desired look. I stopped using a weak dilution of 1:20 twenty years ago, as you can tell by this thread, I like working fast.
MAS - is Michael A Smith who wrote a nice article in the 90's about outflanking when printing, which is a method I was taught and I believe most professional printers use.
Cold tone papers generally require more bleach to get my look. I prefer cold tone papers for this particular look. (for Russell Monk series we used Ilford Warmtone,my favourite paper The bleach time was 5 seconds no more and the prints started to get too warm.
I only go full on sepia for one current client and I am not a really big fan of a full sepia toned print, I prefer a split where the highlights tone yellow and the shadows that tone cooler.
I always give a 20 minute soak in water after sepia toning before I go into the selenium or other toners.
It appears some of us here like to sepia first then selenium(me) and others prefer to selenium first.
I will never bleach and then selenium without fixing and washing the print between the steps, and I cannot explain the theory behind this.
Originally Posted by DarkMagic