It's always hard to tell for sure unless I've got it in front of me but a couple of suggestions in order of increasing complexity. START SIMPLE with burning and only proceed to more complicated procedures as necessary.

Depends how large the print is and also on how much burning is required. A small hole in a burning card could work unless the print is really small. It might take some practice to get it right but that's ok. Doing the burn with a very low contrast filter can help bring in subtle highlight detail and makes it a little easier to avoid artifacts around the area being burned (depending on the surrounding tones).

Watch for dry-down. You want detail but you don't necessarily want to kill the highlight.

Flashing could help if it is done carefully and rather precisely in this case. There are various ways to do this from negative masking to cardboard cutouts at the paper plane.

Another way would be to make a selective burning mask like the ones Alan Ross uses. It works great for 4x5 and larger negatives and doesn't require the more complex procedures required in making contrast masks with camera or litho film.

Depending on how complicated you wanted to get, dodge/burn masks can be useful for this type of thing. I'm sometimes able to get a relatively simple one-step sandwich-type mask to work. If you wanted to get more complicated, you could make a flashing mask. This is multiple steps and requires good registration.