All the chemicals you list have very long shelf lives, meaning you may want to keep them around just on the off chance you might use them in the future. They are, however, old and no longer made AFAIK. At least I don't think Johnson is around anymore.
Neofin Red was a high-acutance developer for fast films. Google or check out the Massive Development Chart for times and possible applications.
The Johnson copper intensifier is a bit more esoteric and now gone. It was used to intensify weak negatives and for toning. Check out http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Jo...Chemicals.html for the original instructions. It seems to be similar to copper toners, so check them out too.
The Johnson reducer (sounds like the opposite of a lot of spam I get... is just good old Farmer's Reducer. Look for instructions and applications for the Kodak product or similar.
The glazing solution is for ferrotyping, i.e., drying fiber-base prints with the emulsion surface stuck to a sheet of polished metal (or glass) to achieve a high gloss. Still usable if you have a ferrotyping plate and want that look. You wet the print with the solution before braying it onto the plate.
And, IIRC, someone one this forum was looking for glazing solutions... which brings up another idea. If your chemicals are still in factory-sealed packages, they may be worth something as memorabilia/collectors items. Try listing them on eBay before you toss them.
If you do decide to toss, then dilute the chemicals with plenty of water and just run them down the drain. There should be nothing really toxic about any of them with the exception of the copper toner. I might do a little research on that one, or drop it by the hazmat collection center (which you could do for all of them if you liked) before discarding it down the drain.
As for mixing stop from glacial acetic acid: Standard practice is to make a working stop bath from glacial (100%) acetic acid in two steps. First, dilute the full-strength acetic acid down to 28% by mixing 3 parts of glacial acetic acid with 8 parts of water (do as you oughta, add the acid to the water). This you can label an keep as a stock solution (you can also buy 28% acetic acid). To make working solution mix in a ration of 48 ml of 28% acetic acid to 1 liter water.
That said, Kodak Indicator Stop is basically glacial acetic acid with an indicator added. They recommend mixing directly in one step at a 1+63 ratio, which works out to 1 oz. / half gallon or 16ml / liter. You should be able to do this with glacial as well.
Hope this helps,
Last edited by Doremus Scudder; 02-25-2012 at 04:18 AM. Click to view previous post history.