Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
Serdar, not exactly an answer to your actual question but I still wanted to mention: I remember reading somewhere (could be Reilly's The Albumen and Salted Paper Book - full of useful information...) that the silver solution's strength should be about 6x of your salt solution - I mean for best results... I think you can use a 12% silver solution; more silver -> stronger / darker and contrasty (in terms of print's dynamic range) images...

I have little to add to Jim's comment: I personally use Pyrocat-MC (mixed it myself, you don't necessarily have to mail order it...), this developer is capable of giving strongly UV blocking negatives and lots of exposure scale. (10-12 stops...) Definitely try it! Also, FP4+ is great for strong / dense / contrasty negatives. (If you're using film negatives that is...)

BTW, don't be intimidated of silver prices, the real cost lies in paper, not silver!

As a last note: Definitely try gold-thiourea toning, untoned salt prints are kinda thin skinned / pretty vulnerable to atmospheric pollutants. (You'll get neutral / colder tones though. But a much more robust image: both in terms of longevity and dmax...)

What film / developer / paper do you use? (The more information you provide the more feedback you'll get...)

Regards,
Loris.

(Bol sans diliyorum...)
Hi Loris,

Unfortunately for now I am using transparencies for my thesis project. They are ok with VDB and cyanotype, but salt is new I still need to experiment and optimize.
And I am not getting the perfect transparencies, I am content with the flaws and imperfections, because it fits the project.

I looked for gold-thiourea at the chemist shop but can't seem to find it may be there is another name for it?
And I am also considering waxing prints but it is not decided yet.

About the paper I am using Canson Montval for all of the processes.

Thanks again
Serdar