I sometimes think that if I could only have one film and one developer it would be Pan F and Rodinal. It's beautiful, and I haven't found it hard to tame the contrast on most scenes.

I shoot it at EI 25, and develop in Rodinal 1:100 at 68F/20C for 15 minutes for normal contrast. I agitate constantly the first 30 seconds or so, then reduce it down to about once every 3 minutes if the scenes are normal.