Boy -- where do I start...

First, once you make the Potassium oxalate developer, it technically will last your lifetime, except one loses some in the paper with every print. I like to use it warm (about 100F or so). Occasionally you might want to filter the developer. I'll have to go up to the darkroom to get the amount per quart/liter.

EDTA -- about a tablespoon per quart (or liter). I like to add my EDTA to working strength Kodak HCA. Usually more HCA than EDTA -- perhaps 3:1. Some papers clear easier than others. I usually use 3% to 5% Citric acid for the first clearing bath, but three baths of the HCA/EDTA will work for most papers. As the first bath gets yellow (from the iron it is clearing out), it gets tossed down the drain and a new bath is added at the end of the line (the old 2nd clearing bath becomes the first clearing bath, etc).

I save the second and third clearing baths for the next printing session.

Good dust mask for mixing the developer. Gloves for the developing stage.

I like to use a "Puddle Pusher" for spreading the chemicals on the paper -- then finish up with a brush.

If your images have a lot of white near the borders (as in sky) and you get some "bleeding" of black from the black edge into you image area, I found that pouring the developer onto the print prevents this (rather than dunking the print into a tray of developer). This works for me especially as I have the developer in a water bath to keep it warm between prints anyway.


Vaughn