Quite heavy - all metal construction. Very solid feel.
Nice, smooth lever advance, and a properly lubricated example will have a very quiet shutter. Almost all of them now have "crinkled" shutter curtains (metal) but this does not affect operation.
The frame lines in the viewfinder are engraved and always visible: 35mm, 50mm and 100mm. Some people with glasses report having problems seeing the 35mm framelines. I don't wear glasses and even I have some trouble, as the viewfinder is 1:1 (you can use it with both eyes open.) Still, it is a great camera to shoot with.
Did you read Camera Quest's Canon P page? He has lots of good information.