Dan, If you are shooting with a tripod or copy stand and your subject isn't moving then you have plenty of time to focus and even close the lens down before making your exposure. I never said your set-up wouldn't work with non-moving subjects. Over the years I have used many different types of lenses for macro work. Enlarging lenses, used front forward or reversed, can give good results. I agree with you that split image and microprism focusing aids are not useful for macro work. I now have a number of systems but in 1984 my one system was Konica. I bought a new chrome Konica FT-1 body and brought it to Professional Camera Repair in NY. The original focusing screen was removed and was replaced by a Nikon E (grid) screen from the FE. I still have that camera and have used it a lot. Many years later I had Greg Weber install the same screen in a black Konica Autoreflex T2 body. I find the grid lines of the E screen to be a good sharpness reference. For higher magnification work I prefer a plain matte screen. I have grid and plain matte screens in Canon F-1, Nikon F2/FE/FE2/N2020/N8008S/N90S/F90X, Mamiya NC1000S, Minolta X-700 and Bronica ETR/SQ/GS-1 cameras. When I was younger and had a little more patience I used a reversed 28/3.5 Hexanon on extention tubes with an Auto Ring and Double Cable Switch. This was on the FT-1 and hooked up to a home made bracket with small flash units attached on either side. I shot with this rig on the ground, chasing ants. The Auto Ring and Double Cable gave me semi-automatic diaphragm control. This allowed me to focus wide open but shoot closed down for increased depth of field.