If Ansco 120 is Metol agent only and close to the components I listed then I would say give it a go,
Yes all of my Solarizations are on Ilford Warmtone or Hannamuhle Art 300.
I favor a grade 4 filter starting point or 100 Magenta. ** I use condenser and diffusion enlargers for this.
For me the secret is to make a normal looking density on the paper in the first dev.
I like the print to be lighter by about 1/3 stop. Then I move to the second developer and flash.
You will get consistent results if you work exactly the same way, and time yourself so the flash is turned on at the right time.
I use a 2-4 second flash and I make sure the print is fully soaked in the second developer with no bubbles on the surface and flash.
I like to do the full development as the results are unfolding before your eyes and you will be tempted to pull the print early but for repeatability I do full process.
basically your whites and blacks start moving towards each other so when you are making your first tests just pretend you are making a light print in your first dev. It will be a grade 4 light print but the dev is softer than Dektol so it balances out that you can determine quite easily the proper starting point with one or two exposures.
The lighter the initial exposure the more reversal or effect, the darker the initial exposure , the more real the effect.
There fore with Dodging and Burning you can create some really amazing prints.
Post some of your results and have fun
Originally Posted by tkamiya