Have you tried adding hypo (sodium thiosulphate) to the First Developer? Kodak Supra Endura can benefit a little bit from a tiny amount (0.10 g/l or so), but I found that Fuji Crystal Archive really needs it to get proper blacks (I got greenish-gray without it), and at much higher concentration than Kodak Supra Endura. I don't remember the exact numbers but you can try at 1 g/l. It may be easiest to prepare a 10% solution first if you don't have an accurate scale. These numbers are for pentahydrate version.
Adding that hypo might fix both blacks and cyan forehead! If not, add more. If you add too much, you will be making the image too contrasty and kind of posterized.
If hypo doesn't fix it, then it's probably the balance of bromide -- too low, you won't have good blacks (I tested with ZERO bromide and got bright red or yellow depending on hypo), too high, you won't get good whites. Of course, if you have both problems at the same time, then you have to find another solution than just adjusting bromide.
One fun thing in this process is that nothing goes as expected. When I say how hypo and bromide levels affect images, I mean how they affected the images when I tested them. It is very well possible that we are using different versions of the paper, etc. Kodak and Fuji naturally only test their product in normal RA-4 process and they can make radical modifications in grain structure etc. which can affect the reversal process without affecting the normal process.
Don't waste your precious time re-exposing for 10 or 20 minutes. Using a 100W bulb or comparable from a distance of 20-30 cm or so, something around 3-4 minutes is DEFINITELY enough. If I remember correctly, I tested 30 seconds with a 60W bulb and found out it was not enough but it came close, and 1 minute has always been enough for me for both Kodak and Fuji paper.
Last edited by hrst; 05-30-2012 at 07:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.