There lies the difference of opinion . My experience tells me that Dektol will not work... you may be able to get somewhat basic results, but when I changed to the Metol only developer... BAMMM.. NOW WERE TALKIN.

Its kind of like lith printing... one can get basic results with lets say Kodak A B but always a bit weak... change to Champion AB and ...BAMMM.. NOW WERE TALKIN.

I strongly advise Tkamiya to read the paper by Mr Jolly and follow it to a tee... one of the most wonderful accurate descriptions on how to do this process I have seen.
I first started this path back in 2002 and 10 years later when I re read his paper its amazing how well he described what I have learned in the darkroom.

Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
Tkamiya: Why don't you try it the simple way first and proceed from there. I'm not sure why you'd have to use a Metol-only developer, other than if you wanted development to proceed more slowly or wanted a different image color or lower contrast. Just use your standard Dektol (Metol-Hydroquinone) or Warmtone or whatever else you have and flash 3/4 of the way through as PE suggested. I'll check a book later but I don't recall there being any special requirements with respect to developers etc. to get this to work. I'm not saying there wouldn't be differences with different developers, papers and techniques, but why not just try it using the materials you have and see what happens. Experiment a little, and then go from there into the more involved ways of doing this, such as those Bob is describing. There are likely lots of different ways of getting Sabattier effects, with all sorts of degrees, nuances and subtelties.