Perry- Good point on the chemistry, although I used it again today. It seemed to work fine, but I probably won't use it again.
I thought the Kentmere was only available in glossy which, I thought, isn't supposed to be good for bromoil.
Clive- I've read so many different ways of doing bromoils. I'm just fumbling my way through the learning process. I've read of soaking the matrix at temps between 68-85 degrees... using a normal print to a low contrast one... printing the original up to 50-100% darker... soaking from 5 minutes to 45 minutes... Are you starting with a darker, softer print?
Eddie, I would start with a very soft print (low contrast), not necessarily darker than normal, but one that is so soft it would be unacceptable as a normal print. You ideally want to work with a non-super coated paper, which is why I used Kentmere document art, but don't think they make it anymore. Pre-soak the print in water before inking and then wash and ink again as necessary. This pre-soaking is very important, as is the temperature of the water (I think I used about 72°F). This is because the Bromoil worker is now dealing with the physical attributes of the print and not the chemical. Therefore the amount of swelling within the gelatin layer will have a direct effect on the way in which ink is taken up. I think the process has some similar properties to lithography and so I used black or brown lithographic ink, sometimes mixing them. I haven't made a bromoil for some years now, as some of the chemicals are quite nasty. Please be careful.