I second Ed's recommendation for the Ultrafine stuff. I'm not sure whose paper it is they've rebranded (I've heard that it's almost certainly not Kodak though), but it is a fine product. I've been teaching myself how to print color for the past few weeks, and it's really done a good job, although I have used a lot. Let me emphasize that it's not a waste of paper if you've learned valuable lessons on how the stuff behaves. The more mistakes and junk paper you get now, the better you'll be in the future. When and if you stick with it and get really good, you should be able to actually eyeball negatives and be able to print them perfectly within the third try, after making a contact print and maybe one 4x5 test print.

~KArl Borowski