Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
hi thomas

are you able to "lock" your focus ?
that is why nothing stays in focus in the first situation
and partly the second. you have to anticipate movement sometimes

sometimes there is a knob to turn that locks focus
othertimes, like with a speed graphic, there is a little lever ... once you focus+lock it
the focus shouldn't move at all

since "stuff" is moving it won't be the same anyways ( you , the subject &c )
that is why i use focus references /zones as i mentioned above.

i'd look into figuring out how to lock your focus before you give up completely
but then again, if you would rather use a MF camera or a 35mm, don't bother with the 4x5
its just a light and money trap

Hi John,

Locking focus isn't a problem at all. It's more about changing the focus of the camera as the subject matter moves - and when you have a film holder in place you can't see through the camera how it affects the picture.

But I feel like it isn't worth taking it farther. I'm OK using the 5x7 whenever I see something that is a stationary subject, like the patch of cone flowers I have in my front yard. I took pictures of them yesterday with the 5x7. And last time I made portraits with the 5x7, out of ten exposures only two were sharp, because the person in front of the lens had moved ever so slightly, resulting in her cheek bone being sharp, as opposed to her eye. That 80% waste is too much for me, so I have chosen to not use the 5x7 for that type of subject matter anymore.

You're right - it's just a light and money trap. Thanks for bearing with me.

- Thomas