A Jobo CPP2 has a cold water intake on the back-left part (looking at it with the switch at your left).
You don't need an additional pump.
You set the desired temperature with the knobs in the front, for colour development that would be presumably some "lines" above the canonical temperature. Canonical temperature is 37.8 °C so I set my Jobo at 38.3 °C. I use the "lift" so my tank has a hole on top whereby ambient air enters so I keep the system temperature a bit above the canonical temperature. Your mileage may vary.
The heater heats the water to around 38.3 °C and the internal thermometer feeds back the heater switch. If your room temperature is below 38 °C (hopefully!) you shouldn't need the external water intake. I let the Jobo run (pump and heater on) for 1 hour so that all the plastics, the chemistry etc. is at the right temperature when I begin developing and the "system" temperature becomes decently stable.
The external water intake is typically used when using the Jobo for processing Black / White at "low" temperature during Summer. Supposing you want to develop at 20 °C, but your room temperature and your Jobo are at 28 °C, you need a way to cool your Jobo. Supposing the water coming from the external intake is cold, the Jobo uses the water intake to keep the temperature firmly around 20 °C.
In theory you can connect the external water intake also for colour, but in my experience this leads to more ample "pendulum swings" in the water temperature.
For the same reason, if you happen to develop B&W in a room with a temperature of 15 °C you don't need the cold water intake and proceed as outlined above in the case of colour development.
The temperature is basically the same with rotary processor and with manual inversion.
The amount of chemistry is smaller when using a rotary processor. Refer to the Jobo site or just read the volumes on the label sticked on the outer part of the Jobo tanks. If your Jobo tank doesn't have the sticker with the volume ask a question here.
The developing time is probably slightly higher. You'll have to do your tests to determine the correct time. I use 7'30" for the first run of chemistry, and 8'10" for the second run, with Fuji Astia and Fuji Sensia (slide film, E-6 treatment).
With colour negative film, C-41 treatment, my notes say 3'15" first run, 3'23" second run, those times are given including the draining time and the small natural time you need to begin pouring the subsequent bath. So for 3'15" you should set your stopwatch at 3'00", turn it on immediately after pouring, and start draining when the stopwatch rings. Those are my times and I use the accessory Jobo "lift". Your times may vary.
It is imperative that the tank is perfectly horizontal to guarantee evenness of development. Horizontality must be checked on the tank not on the Jobo.
It is also imperative that you fill the tank with all the reels even if some of them are empty. If you develop only one roll in a tank for two reels, put inside the tank one reel with the film and the other reel without the film.
Feel free to ask any question.
Welcome in the stinking-hands club (ok now that I think about it in your case the stinking-hands bit is since long acquired).