The albumen is purely to make the collodion stick better at the edges, and most folks just use it at the edges only. What you are seeing with the lack of color is normal for clear glass ambrotypes. Basically, a positive image is an underexposed image regardless of whether on blackened metal or glass, or in your case, clear glass. Placing a dark background behind a clearglass ambrotype will turn the image positive. From what i can tell in your examples, they are over exposed, which is very common for someone starting out. Now the confusing thing i must ask. Are you looking for a clearer positive image? If yes, then try black glass, or trophy aluminum first. If you are wanting to make clear glass ambrotypes, you will always have to provide some type of black backing to the plate, to make the image show as a positive. That can be done with black paint, black velvet, or card. Now if you are wanting to make a real wet plate negative on clear glass, then these examples will lack the necessary contrast and density to make a salt or albumen print. A negative is typically exposed for up to 3 times longer, and then developed longer, and even intensified for use as a negative for albumen/salt printing.