That's a beautiful shot polyglot! And thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far. Although I'll definitely experiment with what I have right now, I'll hopefully be able to pick up some Tmax developer the next time I'm in Fukuoka (the only city close to me that even remotely has anything darkroom related).
I know that digital is really the best way to go for low-light handheld photography, but that's not really a place I want to go to (yet). Besides, when I travel I already carry three cameras (and at least 4 lenses), bringing another one just wouldn't be feasible!
Anyway, I guess the best thing for me to do now is to go and experiment.