Wow! Thanks for the pointer to that great thread. I had no idea that the latent image decayed rapidly in the first minutes and hours after exposure.

From now on, I'll certainly wait hours, if not 1-2 days, before developing the first frame. In my graphs, the first strip was developed 30-60 minutes after exposure, which was too soon. And I've been creating developers all this time that have been pushing a mildly decayed image up to that level, and actually got good results.

Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
Mark; Film was not designed (for the most part) to be exposed and processed. The assumption is that there will be a reasonable lag between exposure and development. This lag is on the order of a minute or so, not seconds. On the other end, the LIK is supposed to be stable for up to a year or so, and I have verified this myself. Hot weather does make it worse.
Stephen's data in the reference from Rudi shows pretty much what I have seen, only his effect is more pronounced at longer times (days). Of course I refer to Kodak film, and we always over designed Kodak film to exceed ANSI standards. I did not see a reference to the type of film used in the referenced test, but you will find that id varies quite a bit from product to product.
Do you mind if I quote you out of context as saying, "Film was not designed to be exposed and processed."? That'll make people ask, "Then what is film designed for?"

Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
That said, I suspect it is LKI due to a short time in the first test and a long time in the second. You might try exposing and then waiting about 2 hours and then processing. Something like that. Or, you could make up a batch of test strips at the same time, keep them for 1 day, and then freeze all but one. Use that one as the base and then take one from the freezer and use it as your reference when you need one. Make sure you protect all film from moisture, freezer burn, and also make sure you thaw it properly before use. PE
I've been reluctant to refrigerate or freeze exposed film for fear of forming condensation. Do you think the 35mm cartridge could be refrigerated if I first drove some inert gas into the can to drive down the humidity? BTW, I pull each frame out of the 35mm cartridge as needed, counting 8 sprocket-holes so the cut will be on a frame-boundary. A 36-shot roll can last a while this way, so refrigeration is tempting. OTOH, I could pre-cut the frames as you describe above, but I'd need a light-free container of some kind, and condensation would still be a worry.

Thanks for these responses. They are obviously helpful.

Mark Overton