Fighting with (learning) a complicated, fully manual, "new to you" tool is only of value if the result you want requires the extra control or negative size or whatever.
First step for me is to point the camera at my composition (on a tripod). Nothing special there.
Concept 1- Control of how the geometry in the chosen scene lands on the film. This is all about the back.
The accuracy required to make your scene look right (with any lens) relates to the orientation of the film to the subject, not how well the camera is squared up to itself.
With camera solidly pointed the right direction already, my next step is to orient the back/film to the subject. Level left/right, swing, and tilt until the geometry on the ground glass is what I want.
(It is actually rare for me to find this squared up.)
Concept 2- Control of focus. This is all about the front.
The orientation of the lens controls the plane of sharp focus.
But you can only choose one surface/plane to align to.
Sure for the face of a building you can align the lens to that surface but so what. Most shots are of three dimensional subjects. Close is normally just fine and aperture has to be adjusted to get the rest anyway.