Quote Originally Posted by John cox View Post
I do a night photography project every year and have found that similar rules apply at night. The moon is usually as bright as a sunny 16 day (If you were to take a picture of the moon), you can zone meter accordingly and get results that work. This comes in handy as sometimes batteries freeze in Canadian winter nights making light meters moot.
Not too surprising, it is illuminated by the same sunlight after all!

I have a metered prism for my ETRSi and a couple of ancient handheld meters which came as part of ebay camera lots. I don't tend to use them though as I like the waist level finder (and I'm not so keen on the bulk of the speed winder if walking around with the camera, without that I find it very hard to hold the camera steady with a prism finder on). I only shoot B&W negative film at the moment and for that I find Sunny 16 works pretty well.

Of late I've taken to trying to guess the correct exposure with my 35mm cameras before I activate the metering. I'm usually right to within half a stop or so, and it makes a good check for metering faults (like the ME Super I had which underexposed by two stops until I dripped lighter fluid into the film speed mechanism and worked thirty years of gunk out).

What I have noticed is that it's better to look for shadows than it is to try to guess light levels, especially if you have self-tinting glasses or sunglasses on. You also need to think about location - I'd guess that my shaded front garden would probably be about f5.6 at the moment, while the sunlit part of the back garden would be f11-f16.