That advice is solid gold. =)
I think you're out of luck. FA-1027 is a very rare developer that not many use, which is why you don't see developing times anywhere with Acros.
Either way, you should test it yourself to make sure that you get good results, so get on with it and let us know how it went!
Shoot a roll in normal contrast lighting, and bracket exposures: EI 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, and 160. Develop for 9 minutes at 1+14 dilution. Now make a contact sheet of your negatives and look only at the shadow detail to determine what film speed is good for you. Do not look at anything else.
Now shoot an entire roll in similar contrast lighting, but at the speed you selected the first time. Cut the roll in thirds and develop one third at a time. If 9 minutes gives you too much contrast, develop for less time. If it gives too little contrast, develop longer. Adjust until you have average negatives that make decent proof prints without any darkroom gymnastics.
Whether you get hold of somebody else's developing times or not, this is a good thing to do, because everybody's situation is different. Shutter speeds that are not accurate, meters of varying accuracy, lighting conditions that change wildly, metering technique, water quality, developer thermometer calibration, etc etc etc, not even getting into what paper you print on and what develop you use. All these variances mean that a developing time that works for somebody else will not necessarily work for you.