Do like some others have said, get a tank and some D-76 or XTOL, stop and fixer and process your own B&W. It's very easy to do and fun! You can be up and running for not a lot of money. No fingerprints and no scratches unless YOU do it so once you get it figured out you will have excellent quality. If you cannot do the whole enlarger/darkroom thing, scan your negatives and send them out for printing, or inkjet print them yourself. And remember, a darkroom can just be a DARK ROOM, so you don't need anything special, although you might want to go that way before long.

They gave you color film. Any Acros I've used (120 format) has a clear base. What happens with b/w film in color developer is that after the color development step the film is bleached, turning all the reduced silver back into a silver halide. The fixing step then removes all the halide and would leave a clear, blank film. In a color film the reaction between the exposed silver halide and the developer would form insoluble color dyes representing the image. The bleach step and then fixing removes all the silver but leaves the dye image. A b/w film has no dye couplers, so no dye image can be formed. The color developer would still form a negative image but as I mentioned above, the bleaching and fixing step would "erase' it. Color film contains (ideally) no silver once it has been fully processed.

An unexposed color film will be blank because there are no exposed halides and therefore no dyes will form. However, there would still be edge markings. A truly blank color film has just been fixed out.

They will try and tell you this was something you did wrong but it's not. It's their doing.

-- Jason