Funny you should ask. I do macro with a 2x3 press camera.

Yes, it can be done. But for subjects that aren't well tied down an SLR is the better tool for the job.

Paul_c is right that the camera/lens assembly has to be solidly mounted, mistaken about the need for "lots of light." The trick is to use a smallish flash relatively close to the subject. I started out using a Vivitar 283 with VP-1 hand held ~ 12 inches from the subject. I used the VP-1 to set the power level as needed given magnification and the aperture I wanted to use. I now use a pair of very small flashes attached to the lens' front with a Jones of Hollywood macro bracket (rare, very hard to find) set up so that I can get good exposure at the same aperture (set) from around 1:4 to 2:1. Finding the set up took some calculations and a little testing, much of it with a flash meter that reads incident. The very small flashes have a couple of stops of ND gel in front of them.

I wanted to shoot flowers. Poor choice of subject. If there's any wind at all the flower will have moved between the time I've finished focusing and composing on the ground glass, have close the lens and, depending on the shutter, stopped it down and cocked it, inserted film holder or attached a roll holder and am ready to shoot. Copy stand work is easy, completely static subjects in the field are easy, mobile subjects are impossible. For mobile subjects, an SLR is better. When I was shooting KM with a Nikon I got relatively flower shots with, um, misplaced planes of best focus. With my little Graphics I rarely get a flower shot with the plane of best focus where I wanted it.

Lens to use? There are many. My lens of choice used to be a 100/6.3 Reichert Neupolar (a hen's tooth) front mounted on a #1 shutter. This is a fine lens, better by test than a known good 100/6.3 Luminar. I've owned one 100/6.3 Luminar; it was a dog, but that's because of abuse post-manufacture. I now use a 4"/5.6 Wollensak Enlarging Pro Raptar (another hen's tooth) front mounted on a #1. Nearly as good as the Neupolar, much easier to use because of more convenient diaphragm control ring location and I can attach the Jones bracket to it.

Lens to use? There are many. You could do worse than to try a 75/4.5 or 105/4.5 Tominon in Copal Polaroid shutter, usually ex-Polaroid CU-5, or from the Polaroid MP-4 system. MP-4 lenses are in barrel, screw into the front of a #1 shutter. For front mounting, the inexpensive #1 shutter of choice is the Polaroid MP-4 Copal Press shutter (badged Polaroid MP-4); these have an open shutter lever and no diaphragm, are relatively inexpensive because with no diaphragm they're not good for much.

Movements? Don't be silly. Orient the camera and subject to put the plane of best focus where you want it. You don't need no steenkin' movements.