Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
Thanks, very helpful.

@athirill

Thanks for the link to the recipes. I hoped it was easier. I am a bit worried about buying so many different components and weighting them to half gram, then having to adjust pH. I hoped it was a bit like preparing a cocktail. I think I'll go for a ready-made solution.

@BMbikerider

Thanks for the information. The site is actually www.morco.uk.com (morco.uk.co sells kitchenware).
They have a "special offer".
http://www.morco.uk.com/kodak_e6.htm

I am going to ask them if they can send to Italy.

In the meanwhile, please tell me what to do with the starter-replenisher dilemma. I use the chemistry "one-shot" with my Jobo (actually "two-shots" as I immediately reuse once). I remember I only need one of those, which IIRC should be the "replenisher", but I am not sure.

Should I just buy the replenisher, or should I buy both and mix the two?

@anyone else
Please keep the information coming :-) The problem might not be solved yet.

Thanks for the help
Fabrizio

PS the roll came out completely black. That should point out that the colour developer is fine. Is there a way to test it to be sure? I don't have a first developer at the moment therefore I cannot develop a test roll.

My colour developer has two components to be mixed. The first bottle contains "p-phenylendiamine derivative" the second bottle contains potassium hydroxide. Is this two-component composition safe as far as oxidation is concerned?
They both look "pretty", limpid and clear.

The first developer looked opaque when undiluted so can I just trust my colour developer from mere visual inspection?
I've made a "supermarket" E-6 First Dev before with great results.

I used Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbic Acid, Paracetamol, and Sodium Metabisulphite (which I used to make Sulphite, though its simpler to start with Sulphite, which is also easy to obtain, for the purpose, I wanted everything from the supermarket as much as possible), and sodium thiosulphate can be used from pool shops for the solvent instead of thiocyanate, but I had thiocyanate on hand and used that, though one could possibly use a little fixer too.

Though it requires testing and adjustment of course, I don't have starting points on me, since I just use Kodak First Dev usually, and just add additives to it, if I need to increase contrast and restrain for old base fogged E-6 film, and still pH range is still necessary for the nicest results.

ATC pH meters are not expensive these days. and 200g 0.01g scales are also inexpensive, and accurate enough for our purposes.