I mainly do digital and some BW printing. Then I moved to RA-4 printing for the first time.

Enlarger: Saunders 4550 XLG with Nikkor 50mm lens
Fuji CA Super Type C Lustre. Cut down 8x10 to 4x5 for test printing
Jobo CPE2+ with 2820 test drum

The paper is new old stock, no expiration, but new from a big case. I had some hard time trying to figure out the emulsion side. I get it now.
The Jobo processor is small and good for the test printing I was doing. I only need 40ml chemical. But I used 55ml. This machine does not have the lift.
The CPAC ColorPAC is also a new old stock. I received a couple of cases when local high school closed down its color darkroom. I'm not sure about the age of the chemicals, but I figure it is about 1-2 years old. Each case can make about 10 to 15 liters. I was a little concerned about its age, but it turned out just perfect.

My initial filter setting is 50Y and 30M. It took me quite a few test prints to get the exposure time right. I followed the procedure to change the lens aperture, instead of exposure time. But that is a very bad practice. Since I do not have the extra mounting ring to mount my good lenses, I have to use the Nikkor 50mm lens. It does not have 1/2 aperture stop. So I used F16, 11, 8 and 5.6. My initial exposure time was too long. To the end, I changed the exposure lever from normal to dim and cut down exposure time to 10 seconds, with F11 stop.

After my last test print, I compared it to the original shop print. The original print looks too greenish, a little on the cold side. My test print looks warmer than the original print. I tried all my Kodak color print viewers, but none of them yield any good results vs my final test print. So I'm happy with my original color filter setting. I'm lucky on that.

Now I have some questions:
1. I'm going to stay with the same paper, same enlarger and similar negative films. What makes me change the color filtration? Does it depend on each frame of the negative? Or I can stick with the same filtration?
2. I know that I need to adjust exposure time with different image size, also its density. Can I used the adjustment formula/dial from the BW printing?

I covered two of the 4 windows in my basement. I did not have any problem with paper fogging. I cut the papers in the dark and I carried some test strips in my pocket. All of them came out clean. My only problem was with identifying the emulsion. Now I got it now.

Now I'm happy. I plan to use the full 8x10 frame of the paper and try some other papers. I'll have some roll papers coming, all Fuji. All the papers and chemicals are cheap. I think they can last a couple of years. I do not know where I'm going to hang all the photos I'm going to print