Toning is not necessarily that involved, but using fiber base paper in general is involved, especially if you're used to RC paper.
For toning with a direct sulfide toner like Kodak brown toner you will need to fix the print thoroughly, then a brief wash, then hypo-clear for 5 minutes, then a final wash for 30-60 minutes. You'll need to test to find your time that offers adequate washing. I wash for the full 60 minutes, but I have an archival washer that saves water. If you don't have one you can soak the print in a tray of water, changing the water every so many minutes. This process saves water. I'm not sure of the exact process for this but if you're interested there are plenty of folks here who use that washing method.
After the final wash you can either dry the print or keep going with the process. At this point it's usually late in the evening and I'm ready to call it a day. If you dry the print you will need to re-wet it before toning, for atleast 5 minutes or so. Then tone for whatever amount of time you wish. As mentioned above brown toners work faster at higher dilutions, so when you pull the print to put into the wash it will tone further and faster, something you obviously don't want. So to stop the print where you want it you will need a 'stop bath' consisting of 100g sodium sulfite to 1L water. Pull the print from the toner and run under strong wash very briefly then into the sodium sulfite 'stop bath.' I usually keep it in this bath for about 5 minutes or so. Since this sodium sulfite bath is basically hypo-clear you will not need to use hypo-clear before the final wash. So you can go straight from the sulfite bath to a final wash of 30-60 minutes.