I use Drew's method having picked it up from him online, and fortunately having bought the Freestyle Legacy Pro brand and been saved the detailed Kodak instructions.
Originally Posted by DREW WILEY
The "tones faster when more dilute" obviously has its limits as some of us have discussed here before. Otherwise you could use one drop of toner in a five gallon bucket of water and tone to completion instantly, or something similar. I think Drew's method may minimize this by both already being at or beyond that limit and by causing even further dilution in the water rinse, where it tends to stop or, more accurately, mostly stop.
I started with mixing it 1/4 strength per Drew's recommendation but this resulted in very short hard to control times like 15-20 seconds, where having the tongs slip off when trying to retrieve the print would be a problem. I went to 1/8th strength. I still tone MGWTFB (developed in Ilford WT developer and fixed in Rapid Fix without hardner, film strength, for one minute) for 40-60 seconds typically. I am still refining this as sometimes it still tends to stop pretty quickly once in plain water, other times to continue toning for more or less total effect. It may also be very subject to temperature fluctuations, the other thing that could account for some of my prints taking 60 seconds to look like others did at 20 seconds in the same strength of fresh toner.
I plan to experiment with the sulphite "stop bath" and maybe with just warming the toner to a fixed temperature, as that's easier than cooling it down.
I love the results with this stuff on MGWTFB though. I rarely make a print on this paper that doesn't receive at least a quick dip in brown toner. I'm not so enthused about the results on MCP 312, one other paper I've tried. My dilute method produced only an unpleasant red-brown tinge in highlights even when time was extended to 10 minutes and more. Full strength toner did tone that paper well, but with a cooler chocolate brown color that I don't like as much as regular sepia.