Quote Originally Posted by Len Robertson View Post
My mistake on the temperature. I went back and looked here: http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/CAXX0540 and the site gives it in degrees F, not C. Either way, it is cold. I went to the Spokane WA area forecast and saw highs this week in the low 40s F with rain and realized how warm that is by comparison.

I suspect there is information online about LF shooting in sub-freezing conditions. The bellows may be something to be careful of. You might need to leave the focus racked out to the lens focal length so the bellows only needs to flex slightly when you fine focus. It probably depends on the bellows material. Keeping the shutter as warm as possible so it doesn't slow down from the cold is probably the main thing. I don't know if there is any chance of light leaks when removing the darkslide from the light trap material not springing closed. You'll just have to experiment and have fun.

Here's my limited practical experience with cold, down to about 0f. No problems with bellows or camera mechanics, aside from cold fingers. No obvious problems with shutters, though most of my exposures are long or bulb.

Problems that I have had are fog on the gg and lens elements, and static. No lightning bolts, rather an affinity for every free particle to attach to various things including film and dark slides. Also dropping things in snow can be a royal pain.

All in all I have found it doable, if even more meticuloudly plodding than normal LF.

Here's my favorite acronym that I say to myself:


Focus- image focused and camera locked

Aperture- aperture set

Shutter- shutter closed

Tach- shutter speed set and cocked.

Only after my FAST check is complete do I pull the slide. This stupid little thing has saved me a lot of blown sheets.

Ask me later how to go out and shoot empty holders all day.